On a chilly December morning, I was awakened by the persistent rumble of the Amtrak Southwest Chief train in our cozy family compartment. I climbed down from the top bunk to find my husband and our 5-year-old daughter still fast asleep below.
Settling into a gray seat by the window, I pulled back the blue curtains. As we cruised through the vast desert landscape of Holbrook, Arizona, I was captivated by the breathtaking peach-colored clouds. The scene felt like I had stepped into a Wes Anderson film, a unique tribute to trains that he often weaves into his storytelling.
Traveling by train across the expansive Southwest to New Mexico in winter brings forth a sense of wonder that flying simply cannot provide. We opted for a 16-hour overnight journey instead of a quick two-hour flight to Albuquerque because we craved a different kind of experience—one that would allow us to slow down amidst our busy lives.
Though we slept for much of the journey, the remaining time was spent marveling at the stunning views through the Sightseer Lounge’s panoramic windows. We indulged in a three-course steak dinner before arriving in Albuquerque around 11 AM.
**Cost Considerations: Train vs. Plane**
If you’re contemplating an 800-mile train ride for the first time, note that there are some factors to consider that differ from flying or driving. Depending on your accommodation choice, taking Amtrak’s Southwest Chief to Chicago could be pricier than a flight. However, whether you’re traveling with kids, solo, or with friends, there are plenty of ways to make it budget-friendly.
Stay tuned as we explore tips about the Amtrak experience, along with recommendations on what to do, where to eat, and where to stay in New Mexico. If you’re lucky, you might even get to witness the enchanting snowy landscapes of the “Land of Enchantment.”
**Book Early for the Best Experience**
Early birds can catch the best deals. Be sure to book your tickets from Union Station in Los Angeles to Albuquerque as soon as possible, since prime compartments—especially family rooms that fit two adults and two children—tend to get snagged quickly. While economy class seats are affordable, having a private room to genuinely lie down and sleep can make a world of difference.
The roomette and bedroom options accommodate two adults (though the former might feel cramped), while the bedroom suite consists of two adjacent rooms. Some compartments come with private bathrooms and showers, while others share facilities, so check what you need when booking.
Having a private compartment offers first-class perks, including dedicated service with nighttime turndown service and complimentary meals in the dining car.
**A Relaxed Alternative to LAX**
If Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) during the holiday rush gives you the jitters, Union Station is like its laid-back little sibling. The East Garage at Union Station almost always has overnight parking available for $8 a day. (If you plan to park for three nights or more, download and fill out the parking application from the Union Station website and submit it to the East Garage parking office.)
If you need to check bags, are traveling with family, or have specific requests for assistance, arrive at least an hour before your train departs. Otherwise, thirty minutes should suffice. If you hold a first-class ticket, you can relax in the Amtrak Station Lounge while enjoying complimentary snacks and drinks as you wait.
**Don’t Forget Your Overnight Bag**
If you check your luggage, make sure to bring a small overnight bag that fits near the overhead compartment of your room or economy seat. Smaller compartments may not accommodate carry-ons, which might need to be stored outside, so a convenient overnight bag is essential.
To keep your devices charged, consider a small multi-plug splitter, as compartments typically have only one outlet. Earplugs can help dampen the rumble of the train at night, and carrying some small bills for tips for the first-class staff is a good idea.
Amtrak trains arrive at the Rail Runner station in downtown Albuquerque. From there, you can book a Turo rental car, which can be delivered to your location, or head to an Enterprise rental location about a mile away (make sure to call ahead for their complimentary pickup service). Alternatively, you could take an Uber or a free city bus to the rental center at Albuquerque International Airport, which offers more options.
To reach Santa Fe, you can either drive just an hour or take the New Mexico Rail Runner Express train, arriving at Santa Fe Depot station, which is less than a half-mile from downtown Santa Fe.
**Exploring Albuquerque**
For accommodations, the historic Hotel Andaluz is just a five-minute walk from the Albuquerque station, making it a perfect base for exploration. This Moorish-style hotel offers ample space for privacy, with stunning casbah-inspired alcoves, a cozy fireplace library, and Spanish tapas from the Más wine bar.
For dining, start your day with New Mexican-style breakfast at Central Grill and Coffee House, where red or green chile sauce features prominently in their delicious dishes like burritos and chilaquiles. For a more contemporary dining experience, check out the vibrant Sawmill Market or 505 Central Food Hall for options like Detroit-style pizza, ramen, and tacos.
**Activities in Albuquerque**
Old Town Albuquerque is a year-round attraction with Pueblo-Spanish-style architecture, galleries, shops, and restaurants. It truly shines during the holidays, with farolitos lighting up the square at night—these are traditional paper bag lanterns from the Southwest.
On Christmas Eve, you can purchase tickets for a 45-minute Luminaria Tour bus ride, which takes you through beautifully decorated streets. The ABQ BioPark Botanical Garden hosts its annual “River of Lights” special event from November 30 to December 30, featuring over 700 illuminated displays along a 1.5-mile trail.
For winter sports enthusiasts, Sandia Peak Ski Area, located 35 miles northeast of Albuquerque, is a great destination. Kids will love the expansive Explora interactive museum.
**Santa Fe: A Walk Through Tradition**
During the holidays, the Inn of the Governors in downtown Santa Fe turns its lobby into a cozy spot adorned with Christmas decorations and a warm fireplace, offering complimentary sherry and biscochitos (New Mexico’s official cookie with cinnamon and anise) during welcome hours. Guests at the inn can enjoy a free full breakfast at Del Charro restaurant and bar, which stays open until midnight on most days.
Foodies will appreciate Cafe Pasqual’s, known for its locally sourced New Mexican dishes, vibrant decor, and communal table where solo travelers can meet new friends. Also, be sure to visit the Shed, a Santa Fe gem for margaritas, posole, and red chile enchiladas that has been a local favorite for 71 years.
**Holiday Traditions in Santa Fe**
The Canyon Road Farolito Walk on Christmas Eve is a cherished tradition that attracts thousands to stroll down the art-filled avenue decorated with Christmas lights. The Santa Fe Botanical Garden also holds La Luz de las Noches from December 19 to 31, featuring farolito lanterns, live music, and food and drink offerings.
If you’re keen on snow activities, Sandia Ski Area, just a 35-mile drive east from downtown, will be debuting a new high-speed lift this winter. Don’t miss the immersive art experience at Meow Wolf and film screenings at Jean Cocteau Cinema, owned by Game of Thrones creator George R.R. Martin.
This enchanting Amtrak journey to New Mexico deserves a spot on your winter bucket list—just remember to book soon!
