The mighty Yangtze River flows from the glaciers of the Geladanong Mountain, nourishing the stunning Three Rivers Source Nature Reserve.
The Yangtze Culture Research Team first arrived in the Suo Jia Township of Yushu City, Qinghai Province, eager to explore the roots of Yangtze culture. At that moment, 25-year-old Tibetan youth Doje Tashi had just completed what he described as a journey unlike any other.
“I drove three hours to see the source of the Yangtze River. I love it there,” he told us in fluent Mandarin.
Known locally as the “First Family of the Yangtze Source” due to its proximity to the river’s origin, Doje’s home is situated in the village of Dangqu at an altitude of over 4,500 meters. Despite the biting cold and a recent hailstorm, the sun shone brightly over the distant mountains, creating a striking contrast.
On the vast grasslands, a herd of antelope roamed freely.
Like Tashi, we, too, felt a mix of curiosity, awe, gratitude, and love toward the source of the Yangtze. Every great civilization has its mother river—it is the source of all life. Thus, we traveled thousands of miles to uncover the Yangtze’s origins.
We sought more than just the geographical source of the river; we were looking for the spiritual, foundational, and cultural essence that nourishes the land and its people.
The Journey: A Thousand-Mile Pursuit of Water
Suo Jia Township is one of the most remote areas in Qinghai, with an average elevation of about 4,500 meters and is often referred to as “the edge of the sky” due to its harsh, oxygen-deprived conditions. We had not anticipated the challenges in reaching the Yangtze’s source.
Starting from the drizzling southern Jiangsu, we made our way to Xining, then embarked on a grueling ten-plus hour drive to Yushu, proceeding to Zhiduo County, and finally to Suo Jia Township—an epic journey spanning all four seasons.
Here, we felt particularly small against nature’s grandeur. Winding through the terrain, we were accompanied by altitude sickness and an endless display of breathtaking scenery. The clear sun illuminated a blue sky, with mountains stretching on seemingly forever, and fluffy clouds casting gentle shadows on the hills. Occasionally, we encountered a few yaks grazing and wading without a care in the world.
After a bumpy ride into the Yangtze Source Protection Area, we found ourselves amidst expansive grasslands dotted with varying sizes of marshes and lakes.
That afternoon, just a few kilometers from Doje Tashi’s home, we finally laid eyes on the spring water flowing from the northern source of the Yangtze River.
The spring wasn’t large or turbulent; instead, it bubbled quietly and consistently, reflecting a bluish-green hue in the glistening moss under the open sky.
Countless such streams converge here like capillary vessels, gently merging to form the Yangtze River—a winding, voluminous force flowing through much of China, nourishing generations of culture and life along its banks.
We filled a bottle with this crystal-clear water, pure and transparent, reminiscent of the whispering wind. It brought to mind an ancient poem about the Yangtze: “I dwell at the head of the Yangtze, you reside at its tail. Day after day, I long for you, yet can’t see you; together we drink from the Yangtze waters.” Countless times we have recited this poem by the Song dynasty poet Li Zhi Yi, moved by its deep affection.
Now, we have finally bridged the gap from poetry to reality, coming from the river’s estuary to fulfill a romantic reunion that once seemed unreachable.
Guarding the Source: A Mission from the “Edge of the Sky”
In our quest for the Yangtze’s source, we also sought its cultures and the life that springs from it. The nomadic people, finding refuge by water, have long harbored both gratitude and reverence for this vital resource.
Though lacking the romantic charm of poets, they are simple yet passionate, recognizing the value of their land and willing to sacrifice everything—even their lives—to protect it.
Doje Tashi’s family has been herding for generations. In their new home, he warmly welcomed us and shared that he had visited the Yangtze’s source during the National Day celebrations.
He has a strikingly handsome face, wearing a hat and white sneakers—with an eagle embroidered on his shirt—representing the new generation of herders.
“I love this grassland and cherish our Yangtze’s source,” he said sincerely, without a hint of pretense.
“Even though I grew up near the river’s source, most villagers had never visited because the journey was so challenging. Now that the roads have improved, my friends and I go there several times a year,” he explained.
“The road is still tough, requiring a three-hour drive,” he added.
He enjoys spending hours by the source, listening to the rushing water and watching Tibetan wild donkeys, wolves, and various rare birds go by; it brings the beauty of his homeland to life in vivid detail.
His father, Xi Xi Peng Tso, serves as an ecological steward of the grassland. Though not very educated, he diligently records ecological observations daily, noting the animals he sees and those he rescues.
When discussing how he helped a Tibetan wild donkey injured by a wolf, the usually quiet Xi Xi Peng Tso animatedly used gestures, excitement shining in his eyes.
Protecting the environment is their life’s mission.
Suo Jia Township is also known as a land of heroes. From a young age, Doje Tashi admired the story of Jiesang Sonam Daji, a figure he respects deeply.
Sonam Daji was a pioneer in protecting the ecological environment of Hoh Xil and the Three Rivers Source. He conducted field investigations in Hoh Xil on twelve occasions to promote conservation efforts, focusing on the Tibetan antelope.
On January 18, 1994, while escorting criminals in Hoh Xil, Sonam Daji tragically lost his life during an ambush.
Thirty years later, his spirit continues to resonate throughout this vast plateau, never forgotten. A memorial hall dedicated to him stands in a local boarding school, and a statue of him overlooks the school courtyard.
A fifth-grade student named Bai MaTsoMao confidently shared about the hero’s deeds with us, her voice pure and clear. These stories have deeply ingrained themselves in their lives, shaping their actions and values. Another student mentioned that he picks up trash while herding, a lesson learned since childhood.
The school has a touching motto: “Our mother is the distant Suo Jia; therefore, we hold a profound responsibility.”
These simple words carry monumental weight. The people living at elevations of four to five thousand meters uphold this “responsibility” as they guard their “mother” — the source of the Yangtze River.
Exploring the Source: The Song of the Yangtze from Its Origins
As another resident of the “edge of the sky,” Wenza embodies a different kind of mission.
With a white beard fluttering in the wind, he resembles a character from a snow mountain myth—one of his many distinguishing features. We first encountered him at “The First Bend of the Yangtze River,” a sweeping 360-degree turn that showcases its grandeur.
In Tibetan, the name of Wenza’s hometown, “Zhiduo,” translates to “the source of the Yangtze River.” The river cascades eastward from Zhiduo County and is known as the “First County of the Yangtze River.”
Wenza hails from Suo Jia and has served as the township’s Party Secretary. Over the years, his trips to the Yangtze’s source ignited a fervent passion for the study of Yangtze culture—what he refers to as “exploration of the source.”
The banks of the Yangtze have birthed prosperous cities and countless romantic legends. Yet, some individuals, unaffected by wealth, quietly seek to understand the civilization of the Yangtze and its spiritual essence.
Wenza is undoubtedly one of those seekers. He gifted us a collection of books titled “Source Culture.”
In April 2016, the Three Rivers Source National Park pilot program began in Qinghai. Zhiduo County is located within a uniquely important ecological area that includes a national-level nature reserve, a national park, and the Hoh Xil World Natural Heritage Site.
At that time, Wenza began conducting an investigation into source culture, inviting cultural figures from four to five provinces to assess the entire Three Rivers source. Their aim was to unearth the deeply rooted cultural narratives, unearthing ancient stories from the glaciers and transforming them into written form, ultimately resulting in the “Source Culture” series.
“The culture of the Yangtze River’s source is the source of life, ecology, and culture,” he emphasized. Generations have recounted numerous folk songs and tales that honor the sacredness, preciousness, and character of water.
“What we observe at the source is not just the cradle of rivers; it is also where we can discover the origins of human emotions, early philosophical ideas, and the primitive nature of myths,” he said, his excitement palpable.
We chatted until dusk fell over the mountains, shrouding the 4,300-meter “First Bend of the Yangtze” in tranquility. As the sun set, Wenza recited poetry about the Yangtze and shared folktales of its origins, his singing in Tibetan resonating through the valleys — “You have come from the snow-capped mountains, the spring tide is your brilliance…”
This was a song of the Yangtze born from the edge of the sky.
