Nigel Slater’s summer tomato recipes to enrich the soul

Nigel Slater’s summer tomato recipes to enrich the soul

This summer hasn’t exactly been ideal for tomato growing, but I’m making the best of the situation. My original plan to grow them on my kitchen roof hit a snag due to an unusually long, wet spring, followed by an even rainier summer. So, I decided to head to the store and returned with a vibrant array of tomatoes ranging from bright acid green to deep black. I picked up tiny orange varieties that reminded me of candy and even some still attached to the vine, which brought with them that wonderful smell of freshly picked fruit.

When I encounter tomatoes that fall short on flavor, I find that the best remedy is to cook them. The heat from the oven or stovetop really brings out their essence, especially when paired with natural seasonings like garlic, onion, and basil. Recently, I baked plum tomatoes with sausages and lentils, and I also made a fresh soup with smaller tomatoes, summer carrots, and feta. One of my favorite preparations is slicing the tomatoes, coating them in breadcrumbs, and frying them until they’re crispy. We enjoyed them with a homemade herb mayonnaise—while I chose coriander, basil would work wonderfully too.

On those lucky days when I find exceptionally fragrant tomatoes, I love to savor them thinly sliced with a drizzle of olive oil on my breakfast toast, topped off with a sprinkle of shredded basil. I also dice them for salads, pairing them with hot, crispy gnocchi or turning them into a refreshing gazpacho with sweet orange-fleshed melon and coriander. It’s a light soup, perfect for enjoying outdoors on a rare sunny afternoon.

Speaking of refreshing meals, I’ve been experimenting with a delicious soup combining tomatoes and summer carrots. It’s quick and versatile, making it a fantastic way to use up overripe or lackluster tomatoes. I finish it with salty feta, though tofu is a great substitute for a vegan option.

When I start the cooking process, I typically use a large onion, oil, about 400 grams of carrots, vegetable stock, thyme leaves, and 500 grams of tomatoes, along with around 200 grams of feta for that salty finish. After softening the onion in the oil, I add the carrots, pour in the stock, and let everything simmer. The tomatoes, which I chop and gently cook with a dash of salt and pepper, are blended into the soup until smooth. I serve it by spooning the soft-cooked tomatoes on top and crumbling feta for added flavor.

I also enjoy making crispy gnocchi with tomatoes for a contrasting salad. Using vacuum-packed gnocchi from the store, I carefully prepare them in olive oil—keeping a lid close by to manage any oil splatters. I mix diced tomatoes with radishes and cucumbers, adding finely chopped parsley for that refreshing touch. Once the gnocchi are crisp, I toss it all together for a delightful crunch, simply seasoned with olive oil.

For a laid-back lunch, I often whip up fried tomatoes with a coriander mayonnaise. I start by whisking egg yolks, mustard, and vinegar to create a rich mayonnaise, adding a squeeze of lime for flavor. The firm tomato slices are coated in beaten egg and breadcrumbs before frying them in hot oil and served immediately with the creamy mayonnaise.

Another comforting dish I love to make is a tomato, sausage, and lentil bake. I first brown the sausages to enhance their flavor, then add onions, garlic, and lentils, letting them cook until tender. I incorporate the tomatoes next and let everything bubble in the oven, finishing it off with a drizzle of crispy chili oil for an extra kick.

Lastly, I prepare a refreshing melon and tomato gazpacho, opting for a coarse texture by grating the tomatoes instead of blending them. I mix in ripe cantaloupe, chilled mineral water, and a handful of coriander, seasoning lightly before serving it with a splash of olive oil and crushed ice.

And when I pair young courgettes with tomatoes and basil, it’s a match made in heaven. Simmering the tomatoes with garlic and chili before adding the crisped courgettes preserves their fresh taste and results in a lovely light meal.

In short, tomatoes are incredibly versatile and can effortlessly adapt to a variety of culinary creations, capturing the essence of summer no matter what the weather brings.

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